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Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Buffets That Are Really Good, And Not Just Good “For a Buffet”

I spent the past two days cleaning off the top of my desk.

Yuck.

It had about two-and-a-half years of accumulated notes, ideas, phone numbers, and other such valuable but disorganized stuff on it, and I’ve been trying to move everything into a more organized way of being. Why? Because I seem to have joined the cult of people who follow David Allen and his book/personal productivity lifestyle, called Getting Stuff Done. Don’t ask—just read about it on Wikipedia if you want.

I’ve kind of gotten to a point in my life where—with all these projects, with all these children—something needed to change. And yes, I only have two children, but I’ll tell you, with toddler and the infant there are moments where I think: This is bliss, this is the happiest anyone could ever be. And there are other moments where I feel like I’m riding a runaway bus full of drunk tiger cubs: adorable, yes, but certain to kill us all.

So, I’ve joined a personal organization cult. My file labeler came in today’s mail. Many thanks, I think, to reader Gunnar who started me down this particular rabbit hole; if you see a sudden surge in my productivity, you’ll know whom to thank.

Unsurprisingly, in my great desk purge I came across dozens of food story notes and ideas, perhaps the most intriguing of which was: “Buffets That Don’t Suck.” My short list was: Holy Land, the various Indian buffets, and King’s Fine. But then I realized why this story never got off the ground. If the most enthusiasm I can muster for a place is “not that terrible,” well…eh. When I think about buffets that I truly, truly feel enthusiastically about, the short list remains pretty damn short. I don’t think it really counts to include splashy, pricy options like 20.21’s wonderful Sunday brunch buffet—or does it?

So I’m putting out an open call: Anyone have a buffet they really love? My criteria is this: If you were telling your best friend about it you’d say: “It’s really great.” Not: “It’s really great, for a buffet.”

And, to kick things off, here’s my very short list of the Twin Cities’ best buffets:
 

Holy Land

2513 Central Avenue NE, Minneapolis
612.781.2627

http://www.holylandbrand.com
Why I like it: So many intensely flavored Middle Eastern foods—olives, hummus, tabbouli, and so on—hold really well in a buffet, the place is so popular there’s always lots of turnover. The Monday through Thursday buffet runs only at lunch; it’s $8.49 a person (or only $5 the last hour, when they stop replenishing things). Friday through Sunday it’s $9.99 a person, and runs from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; the buffet is $5.99 a pound if you take it to go.
 

King's Fine Korean Cuisine

1051 East Moore Lake Rd., Fridley,
763.571.7256

http://www.kingsrestaurant.com
Why I like it: The various Korean pickles and such hold perfectly, and the buffet tends to keep to an “all killer, no filler” policy of Korean greatest hits like pork bul go gi. The few sushi items are the best I’ve ever encountered on a buffet, not like the mealy, rice-heavy creations you tend to see at “sushi buffets.” But there I go myself: The criteria is not: good for a buffet! It’s: just good. Anyway, this is one of my favorites. It costs $11.99 per person.
 

The Vegetarian

4022 Central Ave NE, Columbia Heights
763.782.9678

http://mnvegetarian.com

Why I like it: About a hundred million years ago, I reviewed this restaurant in its former incarnation, Sahib’s Gateway to India, and this is what I said, more or less: Everything tastes like the same sauce, different meat. Well, I went to the vegetarian version last year—this is kind of a longer story than I wouldn’t normally don’t get into—but they had had some problem which meant they were asking for drivers’ licenses with all the credit cards so I ended up using my real-name credit card, after which the owner cornered me and said I ruined his life, blah blah blah. To which I said: But this food is much, much better. Why? To which he said: Well, we were always vegetarians, this is what we ate the whole time. To which I did not say: Duh, I knew you weren’t tasting that stuff with the meat in it. Anyway, this place is actually pretty great: Vibrant spices, lively curries. They are closed Mondays but have a lunch buffet every other day of the week; the weekend one is best, and costs $10 per person.

All right, I have to wrap this up (in the name of organizational efficiency). Other buffets I like: Most of the Indian ones, including Nala Pak and the secret south Indian one in downtown Minneapolis I wrote about a few months back, though I would need a really good reason to drive out of my way to one. So, if you post about one, please give some reason why yours is better than all the others. Also, the Korea Restaurant semi-buffet(you order an entrée and get soup and sides from the buffet.) I’ve been to the buffet at El Meson a few times, and have found it wildly uneven: Once it was great, once it was horrible. So don’t bring that one up. But tell me this: Where are the great buffets I don’t know about?
 

Posted on Tuesday, July 15, 2008 in Permalink

Comments may be edited for length, clarity, or appropriateness.

Reader Comments:
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Comments, page 1 of 2 1 2 Next »
Jul 16, 2008 10:06 am
 Posted by  bob s

Hi Dara: Hate to ruin your organizational vibe, but the link to the Bombay Bistro post is incorrect - it goes to your review of Korea Restaurant. I think you want to link to "Best Cheap Lunches of the Metro, Part II"

Jul 16, 2008 10:16 am
 Posted by  Kelly F.

Good eye, Bob S. Link corrected!

Jul 17, 2008 08:17 am
 Posted by  charcoal heather

W.A. Frost used to have a Sunday brunch buffet but it got scuttled. I have fond memories of a corn chowder that was once served. There were always little surprises at the buffet as the chefs worked to get rid of excess ingredients from the previous night's kitchen.

The Loring Pasta Bar Sunday brunch definitely falls into the "not terrible" category. I used to go all the time for the mini-burgers. The rest of the buffet, from waffles to eggs benedict to salads, were passable. Only the pastas and soups really suffered from a heavy-handed salt assault.

Can anyone recommend a good Chinese buffet? The best one I've found it Cleveland Wok. Relatively fresh food and not overpoweringly salty.

Jul 17, 2008 11:24 am
 Posted by  CMS

I like the Sunday buffet at Jake's in New Brighton. mmm mmm mmm

Jul 17, 2008 12:51 pm
 Posted by  djm06

Perhaps you should revisit a blast from your own past, the New King's Buffet in Brooklyn Center. (Yes, Brooklyn Center.) They still have your review posted on the door. And their food is still mostly excellent.

I couldn't find a link to your old review, but here's one that mentions it:

http://www.reneeandsteve.com/newkings.htm

Jul 17, 2008 01:32 pm
 Posted by  Dara

Oh, that's right. I haven't been to Brooklyn Center to New King's their buffet in a while, I went once a few years ago and it was off it's game, but I'm not too surprised to hear it's back again, it was truly the king of the Chinese buffets.

Here's a link to my old review:
www.citypages.com/databank/21/1000/article8403.asp

New Kings Buffet
5927 John Martin Dr., Brooklyn Center
(763) 566-8300

Gosh, that really brings me back. I imagine Jack Dols, the guy who tipped me off to that place, has passed on now, he'd be in his 80's now, but what a great guy he was, a passionate letter writer, energetic explorer of his world, really inspiring.

Jul 18, 2008 03:33 pm
 Posted by  reetsyburger

20.21 has a good brunch buffet.
Of course, I only ate salmon, bacon, and fresh fruit, but the eggs, etc. looked good too.

Aug 6, 2008 02:51 pm
 Posted by  coffeebreak8

This is a late post but I love the lunch buffet at The Tea House in Plymouth by Willow Creek theater, although it's best to arrive before 12N as they are slow to replenish entrees.

Aug 26, 2008 04:46 pm
 Posted by  Flyha

Haven't stopped by for a while and just thought I'd offer my 2 cents...

I'd have to say that Sinbad on Eat Street has an amazing lunch buffet. The food is really fresh, more so than Holy Land's (which I'm very fond of) and the owner is so nice it takes you back. I'm drooling just thinking about it!

Also, Taste of Thailand on 7th next to now defunct Chevy's used to have a great daily buffet. I have not been there since their buffet went to Friday's only. However, it was also very fresh and I loved their salads, soup & fruit. Be warned, service is horrid ;-)

Aug 27, 2008 03:13 pm
 Posted by  Dara

Thanks for the tip, but, sad to say, Sinbad's is closed. I used to love that place, it's too bad.

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Dear Dara is the place where Minnesota Monthly readers can interact with our dining critic and senior editor Dara Moskowitz Grumdahl. What makes her so special? She’s been reviewing restaurants and covering food and wine in the Twin Cities since 1995, most notably asCity Pages’ restaurant critic, but also for Gourmet, USA Today, Wine & Spirits, Bon Appetit, and Saveur. She’s been included in five editions of the Best Food Writing anthologies, and been nominated for seven James Beard Awards – though, to tell you the truth, most of the time the medals from her four wins are buried under a pile of chocolate wrappers at the back of her desk. This blog will be where she’ll answer your questions, (though probably not all of them), dish on her latest discoveries, reflect on breaking news, and generally bring the plate to the page.

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